WW SS15

SETTING

THE COLLECTION PLAYS OUT WITHIN A CIRCLE AND AROUND A CIRCLE; CIRCULAR STAIRS IN A CIRCULAR SPACE, MIMICKING THE THEME OF REPETITION AND DOUBLES THROUGHOUT THE COLLECTION. THE STAIRS ARE A RELIC OF A THEATRE PRODUCTION DESIGNED BY PHOEBES MOTHER AND WERE CONSTRUCTED BY PHOEBES FATHER. NOW REINVENTED AND ENCRUSTED WITH GLASS, THEY FORM A GLIMMERING FLOOR CHANDELIER OR MASS OF GLASSY STALAGMITES: AN ACCUMULATION OF NOTHING.

FILM

THE FILM IS CALLED 4 HUMOURS. IT’S BASED ON THE 4 HUMOURS: BLOOD, PHLEGM, YELLOW BILE, BLACK BILE. HAND COLOURED 16MM. FILM BY SUSU LAROCHE. ORGINAL SCORE BY STANLEY SCHTINTER. THIS RICH AND VISCERAL PIECE IS SET AGAINST THE PURITY OF THE TRANSPARENT GLASS STAGING.

REFERENCES

STEMS OF REFERENCES RUNNING THROUGHOUT INCLUDE, DISHEVELED VERSUS TAILORED, BROKEN AND FALLING DOUBLE FORMS, SHIRTS ON SHIRTS, COATS IN COATS, A DRESS ON A DRESS, REPETITION, MARK OF THE MAKER, DANCING STAINS, COMMUNICATION OF MATERIAL, OPACITY, TRANSPARENCY, FULL SURFACE, EMPTY SURFACE, CONSTRUCTION AND ENGINEERING LINES, SAMPLING, RELICS AND MEMORY.

TREATMENTS

COLLABORATION WITH ILLUSTRATOR AND PRINT DESIGNER HELEN BULLOCK FORMED 2 HAND PAINTED PRINTS, WHOSE APPLICATION AND TEXTURE SUGGEST THE PHYSICAL JOURNEY AND FLUIDITY THAT IS EXPERIENCED WITHIN COLLABORATION. PLAYING WTIH THE IDEA OF COLOUR AND PLACEMENT AND DISPLAYING A SPONTANEITY THAT HARMONISES IWTH THE INTRICACIES OF THE CLOTHES. THE FINAL COLOURS ARE A COLLECTION OF THOUGHTS, COLOUR PALLET PLANNING, DECISION MAKING AND OPTIONS, REFLECTING THE PROCESS OF MAKING.

TEXTILE

COMPRISING GUIPURE D’ART, AN ANCIENT LACE MAKING TECHNIQUE WHICH WAS POPULAR IN 16TH CENTURY ENGLAND - OVER SIZED, OUT OF PROPORTION, EXPANDED AND TURNED UPSIDE DOWN. RENDERED IN SOFT MUSLINS ON FINE STIFF NET, THE WEIGHTY MUSLIN ADDING A DRAPE TO THE USUALLY STATIC NETTING FORMS. THESE LABOURED FORMS JUXTAPOSE THE SPONTANEITY AND EMOTION IN THE PRINT. PRESENTED ON ‘SAMPLING’ SWATCH SIZED PATCHES ON THE BODY - AS IF JUST OFF THE EMBROIDERY FRAME AS IF THE DECISION TO COMPLETE THEM HAS NOT YET BEEN MADE.

FABRICS

OPEN WEAVE BUTTER MUSLIN, CLOSE WEAVE CRISP MUSLIN, COTTON SHIRTING, FINE AND OPEN FISHING NET, DRESS NET, AND SOFT NET ALL INTERPLAY BETWEEN DIFFERENT OPACITY AND LAYERS.

DOVER STREET MARKET 10TH BIRTHDAY WINDOW

FROM MONDAY 15TH A SPECIALLY DESIGNED AND CONSTRUCTED LARGE SCALE INSTALLATION WILL BE UNVEILED IN THE STORES PRESTIGIOUS WINDOW SPACE AS PART OF THE 10TH BIRTHDAY CELEBRATIONS OF DOVER STREET MARKET AND THE NEXT 10 YEARS. A SELECTION OF THE NEW SS15 COLLECTION EILL BE SHOWCASED ALONGSIDE.