WW SS12

This inaugural collection was inspired by a new working environment. The rawness of the semi finished studio block Phoebe was working in during the fcinception of ideas and the daily commute walk. The motion of walking inspired the literal weight and visual blocky heaviness of silhouettes and to the eventual use of flat shoes on the catwalk, a mixture of both boot and sandal.

The collection comprises a deep hand stitched smock textile surface forming an irregular pleat which is utilised in heavy cream calicos and light weight black muslins. Cotton calico traditionally used within the toiling process, was employed as a contrast to the precious time consuming technique it is transformed into. This visual preciousness of the smocked surface plays directly against the throw awat connotations of the calico material it is made in.

Heavily frayed and distressed in parts and worked into with aggressive slash cuts for garment shaping, the cream calico is bleached out to a bright white or ink stained into grungy blue-blacks. Cream and black looks are punctuated in places with black rubber under skirts and t-shirt style sleeves whose sheens contrasts to the powdery surfaces of the white fluffy frays. In respect to the manual process of their construction looks are complete with hanging lengths of threads thoughout. Left over from the smocking process, these filaments contrasting to the solidity of the structured body of the looks.

The pounding marching electro beats of TEETH’s ‘flowers’ was kindly leant to us by voaclist Veronica So from their new album ‘Wahtever,’ and was remixed specially for the show by Ed Cox from In Fields.